Witness to a city under siege

August 9, 2026

Professor Zahid Munir Amir recounts his experience of living in Tehran during a war

Witness to a city under siege


F

ew writers possess the ability to transform ordinary experiences into compelling narratives. Professor Zahid Munir Amir, currently serving in the Pakistan Chair at the University of Tehran, is one of them. Rich in detail and marked by keen observation, his writing transports readers to the worlds he describes.

Professor Amir was living in Tehran during the recent military conflict. He thus witnessed the crisis firsthand. Rather than merely recording historical events, he chronicles the human dimension of the war: its uncertainties, anxieties, resilience and moments of unexpected hope. These experiences are brought together in Iran: Jang aur Amn kay Darmian, a work that combines eyewitness reporting, travel writing, personal reflection and cultural observation.

The book comprises chapters that blend information, insight and engaging storytelling. While it is impossible to discuss every chapter in a brief review, a few episodes from Professor Amir’s journey from Tehran to Pakistan illustrate the richness of his narrative.

Despite the intensity of the bombardment, the city displayed remarkable resilience. 

One of the most striking chapters, Witnessing the Attack on Tehran, captures the surreal contrast between war and everyday life. On his way to a scheduled meeting with the Turkish ambassador, Professor Amir observed smoke rising from Tehran’s oil refinery following an overnight strike. Shortly after leaving the embassy and arriving at Istanbul Square, there was another missile attack.

Despite the intensity of the bombardment, he says, the city displayed remarkable resilience. Markets remained crowded and the streets bustling. As explosions echoed overhead, traffic came to a standstill. Yet, instead of panicking, many residents of the city stepped into the streets to watch missiles streak across the sky. Others recorded the spectacle on their mobile phones. Once the attack had subsided, life resumed almost immediately, reflecting the extraordinary composure of Tehran’s citizens.

His journey then took him to Ferdowsi Square, one of Tehran’s busiest commercial and cultural landmarks, dominated by an imposing statue of the celebrated poet, author of the Shahnameh. While exchanging currency at a nearby money exchange, yet another attack interrupted the routine of daily life. Once again, people rushed outside to witness the aerial confrontation. Professor Amir remarks that the bombers appeared to make no distinction between day and night, or between military targets and densely populated civilian neighbourhoods.

The chapter Crossing into Turkmenistan recounts a different kind of ordeal, one rooted not in warfare but in bureaucracy. At the border crossing, immigration officials questioned the absence of an Iranian entry stamp in Professor Amir’s passport. He explained that Iran’s official policy was to issue visas on separate documents rather than stamp passports upon entry. However, the officials remained unconvinced. The situation was eventually resolved when Professor Amir presented his University of Tehran faculty identification card, demonstrating that he was a member of the university’s academic staff. After some consultation, the officials acknowledged oversight and courteously escorted the couple across the border into Turkmenistan, bringing a tense episode to a reassuring conclusion.

The final stage of the journey is described in From Ashgabat to Islamabad. Here, the narrative shifts from anxiety to gratitude. At Ashgabat airport, Professor Amir met Dr Faryal Leghari, Pakistan’s ambassador to Turkmenistan. Besides being an accomplished diplomat, she is an author. Their conversation recalled shared memories and Pakistan’s intellectual traditions.

Importantly, Ambassador Leghari personally welcomed and assisted the Pakistani evacuees, remaining at the airport to oversee their departure. In a thoughtful gesture, she arranged meals for all the passengers, ensuring that her fellow citizens experienced comfort and care during an otherwise exhausting journey.

Iran: Jang aur Amn kay Darmian is more than a travelogue. It is a deeply human account of life during a conflict, documenting not only military events but also the endurance of ordinary people, the complexity of international travel in a time of crisis, and the enduring value of diplomacy and compassion.

Professor Zahid Munir Amir’s eloquent prose, keen insights and balanced perspective make this work an important contribution to contemporary Urdu travel writing and conflict memoirs. Informative, engaging and emotionally resonant, the book deserves a place not only in personal collections but also in academic and public libraries for readers interested in Iran, South Asian travel writing and eyewitness accounts of contemporary geopolitical events.

Iran
Jang aur Amn kay Darmian
Author: Zahid Munir Amir
Publisher: Qalam Foundation
International, Lahore
Pages: 266
Price: Rs 2,000


The reviewer is a professor in the Faculty of Liberal Arts at the Beaconhouse National University, Lahore.

Witness to a city under siege