Magical PERU

travelogue

Peru had been a dream for many of us, but nothing quite prepared our group of 26 friends and trekkers for the magical adventure that awaited us. We were flying in from different corners of the world, converging in Peru for 12 unforgettable days of exploration, culture, food, friendship and the gruelling Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

Even getting to Peru was an adventure. Six of us travelling from Pakistan had to fly to Canada to obtain our Peruvian visas, as there is no Peruvian embassy in Pakistan. After a long journey, with a stopover in San Sebastián, we finally landed in Lima. Exhausted, we checked into our hotel and slept. The following morning, however, the travel fatigue had disappeared. Peru was waiting.

Lima immediately charmed us. The seafront was mesmerising, particularly Parque del Amor - the Park of Love - with its colourful mosaics, sweeping views of the Pacific and the enormous sculpture of embracing lovers. It was a beautiful introduction to Peru. We wandered along the coast, browsing trinkets and handicrafts from local vendors. The olive groves, magnificent residences and lively streets gave us our first glimpse of Peruvian life.

We also explored Peru’s fascinating history through its museums and began to appreciate the depth of the country’s cultural roots. Peru is far more than Machu Picchu; its history stretches back thousands of years and encompasses remarkable pre-Inca civilisations, the mighty Inca Empire and the Spanish colonial period.

And then came the food. Lima is considered one of South America’s great gastronomic capitals and we were happy to test that reputation. Ceviche, Peru’s famous dish of fresh seafood cured in citrus juice and seasoned with local ingredients, was enjoyed by all of us. Every meal introduced us to another flavour. The local crafts were equally irresistible. Colourful textiles, jewellery and beautifully made souvenirs seemed to call out from every shop and market stall. We shopped merrily, completely oblivious to the small problem that would come later - we would actually have to carry it all home.

A couple of days later, we flew into magical Cusco. At approximately 3,400 metres above sea level, Cusco is a high-altitude city, making acclimatisation important before our trek. The city itself was breathtaking. The magnificent Plaza de Armas quickly became one of our favourite places. There was always something happening. We were there about a month before Inti Raymi, the famous Festival of the Sun, celebrated around the June solstice and the excitement was already building. At night, groups of happy Cusqueños gathered in the square, singing, dancing and creating huge, carnival-like celebrations. We loved watching them.

Cusco was full of quaint cafés, restaurants and gastronomic discoveries. One pizza restaurant became a particular favourite. It had a huge, wood-fired, dome-shaped oven and produced pizzas so massive that they could almost have been classified as trekking equipment.

Then we discovered a little shawarma place. It was a tiny, almost hole-in-the-wall establishment, but that did not stop 15 or 20 of us from descending upon it. We somehow managed to turn the little restaurant into our own temporary headquarters. Shopping was, of course, another major activity. Baby alpaca sweaters and shawls were everywhere and we bought plenty. The softness of alpaca wool was extraordinary. We also visited an alpaca farm, where we saw different breeds, fed the animals and interacted with them at close range. These gentle creatures became another delightful memory of Peru. Our hotel in Cusco overlooked the valley. At night, the city lights twinkled across the mountains, creating a magical panorama. The weather was cool and nippy and our rooms became wonderfully cosy after extra heaters were installed. Our mornings developed a rhythm. We would all congregate, drink tea, reminisce about the previous day’s adventures and plan the day’s activities. With 26 people, there was never a shortage of laughter or opinions.

Before beginning the Inca Trail, we took day trips to Ollantaytambo and other historical sites in the Sacred Valley. These excursions gave us our first taste of Inca engineering.

And what struck us most? The steps. There seemed to be an endless number of them - massive ascending flights followed by descents. We realised our trek was not going to be a leisurely stroll. The Inca achievement was extraordinary. The Qhapaq Ñan, the vast Andean road system, extended for more than 30,000 kilometres across the Andes, connecting settlements, administrative centres, production areas and sacred places. It remains one of the world’s great engineering achievements.

Our bus excursions also introduced us to bargaining. Whenever the bus stopped at a site, we would all rush towards the local vendors to see what they were selling. On one occasion, Shez managed to buy a cap for half the quoted price. Naturally, we tried to repeat his success. The seller would not budge. Not even a little. This became one of the running jokes of the trip, “How did Shez manage to get it for half price?”

After three days of acclimatisation, the great divide took place. The trekkers boarded the bus to begin the Inca Trail, while the non-trekkers headed towards the magical town of Aguas Calientes, officially known as Machupicchu Pueblo, the gateway town below Machu Picchu.

For the trekkers, the next few days were tough. The Inca Trail was spectacular, but it was also brutal. Finally, we reached Machu Picchu. Nothing prepares you for seeing it in person. The ancient citadel sits at approximately 2,430 metres above sea level, dramatically positioned between the Andes and the upper Amazon basin. Built in the 15th century, it is regarded as one of the greatest achievements of Inca architecture, engineering and land use.

We finally descended to ground level and were met with cheers and applause from our friends. It was very emotional and some of us, including me, had tears of joy and gratitude after completing the Inca Trail and being welcomed with such love and affection by our friends.

We did a U-turn and went back up, despite our long trek down, with our friends to explore the ruins before proceeding to Aguas Calientes. The town felt like something out of a fairy tale. There were lovely little streets, quaint cafés, lively artisanal coffee shops, colourful arts-and-crafts stores and the railway winding through the middle of the town.

And then the ladies discovered the handbags. Beautiful, locally made, brightly coloured handbags suddenly became the most coveted items in Peru. There was an immediate dash to buy them.

The journey back was an experience in itself, combining a bus ride with the train. The railway stations were lively places, filled with singing, dancing, vendors and travellers. Despite the crowds, everything was well organised. Eventually, we reached our hotel back in Cusco.

And then came the final challenge: packing. Our luggage problem was getting serious. We had to fit our trekking equipment, clothes and all the treasures we had accumulated into our suitcases for our early-morning flight back to Lima. It was crazy how many experiences we had squeezed into such a short period.

Back in Lima, the trekkers finally had some time to relax and simply chill. It was our last day in this extraordinary country. We had lunch and dinner together in beautifully designed, artistic cafés, reminiscing about everything we had seen and done.

The people of Peru were wonderful. Their warmth and hospitality made us feel welcome everywhere we went. We were fascinated by their traditions, crafts, food and connection to a history that was visible in everyday life. Soon, however, it was time to say goodbye. We were all departing for different cities and different corners of the world.

It had been a 12-day trip like no other. For many of us, it was our first time in South America and Peru had given us a spectacular introduction. We had experienced the Pacific coast of Lima, ancient civilisations, colourful markets, delicious ceviche, alpacas, the extraordinary city of Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, the Inca Trail and the unforgettable Machu Picchu. But more than anything, Peru had given us memories.

Twenty-six friends and trekkers had travelled from different parts of the world and come together to experience this magical country. We laughed, explored, ate, shopped, bargained, climbed, descended and, occasionally, wondered why we had decided to climb yet another flight of steps.

We returned home with photographs, souvenirs and aching legs - but also with stories that will be retold for years. Peru opened a window into a fascinating civilisation and showed us a landscape where history, culture, nature and human ingenuity exist in extraordinary harmony. Everywhere we went, there was another story to discover, another taste to savour, another photograph to take and another reason for us to laugh together. Peru made ordinary moments feel extraordinary and gave us memories that will stay with us long after we returned home.

You truly were magical, Peru!

Ainee Shehzad is an educationist, scholar, Cambridge-certified trainer and an avid trekker with the Kolachi Trekkers. She can be reached at [email protected]